Chef Isaiah Sonjeow has a simple question: "When did people start deciding that not bad was good?"  

He is speaking of the "not bad" phenomenon of dining out.  

"On a Friday night Applebee's has a 30-minute wait. You can't tell me they have better food than us." Sonjeow continues.  

Isaiah together with his brother Chris opened Khom Fai on Sept. 9, 2010.  Their father has been working in the restaurant industry for years. Both Chris and Isaiah have helped their father at his Maumee, OH, restaurant.  "One thing about Thai restaurants is they are almost always owned by Thai people," Isaiah said.

Considering the complexity and nuanced flavors present in Thai cooking, Isaiah's point makes sense.  

Khom Fai's menu is focused. Thirty items have been chosen so those new to Thai cuisine will not be overwhelmed and it is less daunting to execute 30 recipes than it is 100.  

"We're trying to build a system," Chris said. "We would like to open more of these restaurants, so the food cannot have a steep learning curve."

Menu items have English names with the Thai name in parentheses. For example, Drunken Noodles has Pad Kee Mao next to it, so those unfamiliar can order English and learn the Thai name as well. 

Spice levels can make some people uneasy. Both Sonjeows commented on how vastly different medium can be at different restaurants or how different it can be in the same restaurant between different chefs.  

"Our spices are measured to be consistent," said Isaiah. That means medium will always be medium across the board. Rest assured if you like mild or hot, the spice level will not disappoint.

We had the pleasure of taking a journey through the Khom Fai menu with Chef Isaiah choosing the dishes.  

Appetizers

Khom Fai sampler is a great way to introduce a number of different classic Thai flavors. Seafood rangoon, spring rolls, chicken satay, and cucumber salad are included.  

Spring rolls are made by hand in-house. Cabbage, carrots, and noodles are wrapped in rice paper and deep fried. Lighter than a egg roll, spring rolls have a savory crunchy exterior and a bright, sweet interior.  

Seafood rangoon are also deep fried and have a similar crunchy exterior, but instead of vegetables, cream cheese, green onion, and imitation crab meat are inside. Rich and creamy with a subtle seafood flavor, this is probably the most accessible Thai appetizer.

Chicken satay is marinated in tamarind and lime leaves among other things then grilled. It is not easy to cook chicken breast properly, but these are moist and pleasantly tart. The peanut sauce served alongside the satay adds sweet nutty balance. More balance comes from the bright, fresh cucumber salad.  

For those who are looking to try something new, the papaya salad is a spicy and sweet introduction to Thai cuisine. Green papaya is an unripened papaya. It has a crunchier texture and is less sweet than its ripe counterpart. Tomatoes and green beans add color, texture, and flavor. There is an ample amount of chiles as well, but the heat marries with the tart papaya and sweet dressing. This refreshing salad is an exciting way to whet your appetite.

Noodles

Pad Thai is the most popular item on Thai menus. Its flavors are mild and familiar to the American palette. The soy based sauce is sweet and tart. Bean sprouts and peanuts add crunch and earthiness. If the sauce is too sweet, a lime wedge is provided to give balance. If you have eaten Thai, you probably have tasted Pad Thai. Khom Fai's version is among the best I have tasted.  

Drunken Noodles are the noodles served to someone who has come in after a night of excess. Any vegetables in the refrigerator can be used because the drunkard won't know the difference. However, restaurants do not follow this line of thinking. Broccoli, cabbage, carrots, bean sprouts, basil, and eggs are all included in this dish. Rather than being muddled, the different veggies each stand out, which speaks volumes to the freshness of the vegetables. This dish was served to us with hot spice and delivered there as well. After a couple of bites, sweat formed on my brow and my nose started running, tell-tale signs that the dish is hot enough.

Entrees

Noodle dishes are considered entrees, but are not served with rice. The dishes in this section are all served with white rice on the side.

Basil is one of my favorite herbs. You could add basil to just about anything and make me happy. Pad basil is similar to pepper steak with basil added. Basil gives this dish a brightness and depth of flavor that traditional pepper steak cannot come close to touching. The onions and peppers are super fresh and are not overcooked so they have a nice crunch when bitten into.

Gang Gai is made with red curry, which is spicier than yellow curry but not as spicy as green curry. The mixture of coconut milk and curry is a sweet and spicy delight. Add shrimp to the mix for added layer of briny goodness. There is basil in this dish, too, for yet another layer.

For those who are a little less adventurous, try the Khom Fai Crispy Chicken. Hand-cut chicken breast is battered and deep-fried, then topped with a honey sesame glaze and chopped scallions. Think less spicy General Tso's chicken. The chicken is perfectly fried outside, moist inside. If you have kids, this would be an ideal dish for them.

Dessert

The only truly traditional dessert on the menu is house made coconut ice cream. Texturally more like coconut ice, this is a not too sweet dessert that is tempered with salty peanuts for additional texture.

There are two other desserts on the menu both cannot be called traditional but both are very good. Thai fried ice cream is much different than Mexican fried ice cream in that the Thai version is almost like an ice cream filled doughnut. Topped with house-made vanilla custard and chocolate syrup, this is an intensely sweet dessert perfect for sharing.

Also good for sharing is a slice of locally made Chocolate Ganache Cake. Made by chef Caroline Wolfe of Custom Cake Boutique, this is a decadent piece of cake. Not too sweet, but amazingly chocolaty, a piece could easily satiate two or three diners.

The Sonjeows want Thai food to be accessible. It is not that Thai food is even that exotic anymore, but getting people through the door is key. Once through the door, the Sonjeows will definitely impress with their versions of traditional Thai cuisine.